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C. A. LAPWORTH.

ELASTIC FABRIC.

APPucATloN F|LED ocr. 18. 1915.

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ELASTlC FABRIC.

APPLICATION FILED OCT. 18,11915. l

Patented Aug. 15', 1916.

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CHARLES A. LAPWORTH, OF 'WEST BRIDG-EWATER, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE LAPWORTH WEBBING COMPANY, OF BROCK'ION, MASSACHUSETTS.

ELASTIC FABRIC.

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Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Aug. i5, 111916.

Application led October 18, 1915. Serial No. 56,423.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, CHARLES A. LAP- woRTH, a citizen of the United States, residing at West Bridgewater, in the county of Plymouth and State of Massachusetts,

have invented certain new and useful Imton weave with alternate -warp threads pass# ing alternately under and over the adjacent wefts.

A. further object of this invention is to produce a novel elastic fabric the face of which presents alternating diagonal raised or twilled portions forming a wave-like design having the anticlinal and synclinal axes thereof disposed over the elastic warps.

The elastic warps employed are woven under tension, and when released contract and cause the face warps to untwist thereby giving to the twilled or raised portion of the design a soft plush-like appearance. In the fabric produced by this invention the weft employed crosses the rubber warp on opposite sides at alternate picks, thereby binding the rubber at every pick and preventing it from materially relaxing in the fabric with relation to the fiber warps after the fabric is removed from the loom.

The fabric to be herein more particularly of the body of the improved fabric the face warps are so controlled by the harnessframes that each face warp is up for five picks where the twill is to be produced, and then down for one pick, up for one pick and down for one pick to produce the plain woven portion of the face. The entire pattern is woven in eight-time motion, or in motion where eight sheds or eight picks are required to produce the pattern, three picks of the eight aiding in the formationof the plain portion of the face and the fabric and five picks aiding in the formation of the raised or twilled portion thereof so that it presents the appearance above referred to.

The back of the fabric, which may be woven in the same order as the face, as is commonly done, in the' preferred form of my invention, is woven to produce a plain pattern as will 'be later described. The selvage is also preferably woven in the plain or cotton weave to produce a firm wearing edge.

My invention will be more clearly understood by reference to the accompanying drawings .in which like characters are used to designate like indicia representing threads throughout the several views thereof.

Figure l is an enlarged detail view of the face of the fabric. Fig. 2 is a spot layout of the design of my invention. Fig. 3' is a cross sectional view of thc fabric showing the warps as they appear at the first shed' or first pick. Figs. 4 to l0 inclusive are like views of the second to the eighth pick inclusive. Fig. 11 is a like view of the first shed ofthe repeat, it being the same as Fig. 2. Figs. 12 and 13 are longitudinal sections of a fabric woven in accordance with my invention.

The face warp comprises four series of threads 8, 9, l0 and l1; 8 designating one series, 9 another series, etc., each series being controlled in the loom 'by heddles of different harness-franies, series 8 being controlled by one, series 9 being controlled by another, and so on, four harness-.frames being employed for the face warp. The india rubber warps f' are all under the control ofone separate harness-frame. The series of back warps 4 and 5 are controlled by the heddles of two different harness-frames, all the series of threads designated by like numbers beingI controlled by the same harness-frame.

In weavingthe selvage, the back warps '4 and 5 and the rubber warp shed exactly as in the main body of the fabric, while the warp fw comprising the face ,design is woven directly the reverse of the back warp, thereby giving a plain or cotton weave to both the front and back of the selvage.

Referring to Fig. 2 the shaded groups of lines G extending horizontally designate the back weft, while the shaded groups of lines I-I runningv vertically designate the back warp. Likewise the horizontally extending unshaded spaces each designate a face weft while the vertically extending unshaded spaces designate the face warp. ,It

`the first-repeat pick of the pattern.

that the back warp at that point is raised to pass over the back weft. From -the foregoing'it is apparent that the blank spaces indicate the relative points at which the weft appears on the surface of the fabric,

and in like manner the filled-in squares and diamonds represent the general outline of the design.

Referring no'w more particularly to Figs. 3 to 11, it will be seen that the face warp ll is raised for the first threepicks, is down for the fourth pick, u for the fth pick, down for the sixth pick and up for the eighth and ninth picks and for the first repeat pick. The face warp 10 is up for the first pick, down for the second pick, up for the third pick, down for the fourth pick and then up for picks 5 to 8 inclusive and for The face warp 9 is up for the first pick, down for the second pick, up for picks 3 to 7 in elusive and then down for the eighth pick and up for the first repeat. The face warp S is up for the first five picks, down for the sixth pick, up for the seventh, down for the eighth, and up for the first repeat. The back warps l and 5 are each up for one pick and then down for three picks, thereby producing a plain or cotton Weave on the back of the fabric. The binders 6 and 7 are alternately up for two picks and then down for two picks. The rubber warp r is up for one and then down on the next pick, alternately.

In Figs. l2 and 13 I have represented the different warp and binder threads of the face and back of the fabric. ,From the showing in these figures, the construction of the completed fabric will be more readily understood and the startings of the diagonal lines of plain and of twilled weaving will also be apparent.

rIhe diagonalor wave-like lines of plain and twilled weaving not only give an attractive appearance to the fabric, when in its normal condition, but are so located with their anticlinal and synclinal axes disposed respectively above adjacent elastic warps that they extend at substantially an angle of forty-five degrees therebetween and upon stretching the fabric thejdesign is not destroyed, but is in reality made more pronounced by reason of the separation of the adjacent or interfitting portionsof the design, thereby more clearly showing each individual portion thereof.

`While I have described this invention as being for an elastic fabric, it is evident that I may, if so desired, construct a corded fabric according to the same plan of weaving, one half of each individual design being formed between adjacent rubber warps ,or cords.

Having thus described my invention what I desire to claim is 1. A n elastic fabric having reversely twilled portions on the face thereof, in -opposite sides of each elastic warp, said twilled portions extending diagonally between ad-y jacent elastic warps to produce a wave-like design extending transversely of the fabric.

Q. An elastic fabric having twilled portions on theface thereof forming a wavelike design extending transversely of the fabric, said design having its anticlinal and synclinal axes disposed substantially co-incident with the elastic warps;

3. A double elastic fabric having a. plain back and selvage, and woven to produce a wave-like design extending transversely of the fabric, said design having its anticlinal and synclinal axes disposed substantially over adjacent elastic warps.

4. In an elastic fabric woven in eighttime motion, a design having alternating crests and troughs extending across the fabric in one direction, and having elastic warps extending through the fabric at substantially right angles to the design, said elastic warps passing through the crests and troughs respectively of said design.

In an elastic fabric, a plurality of elastic warps, a design having the main body thereof extending transversely of the fabric at substantially right angles to said elastic warps, said design being composed of a plurality of units or twilled portions each of which is formed between adjacent elastic warps, the continuity of said twilled portions in a given direction on a given line terminating with the adjacent elastic warps between which it is formed.

In testimony whereof, I have hereunto subscribed my name.

CHARLES A. LArwoRTH. lVitnesses:

WILLARD E. EVERETT, HENRY C. RIPLEY. 

